Musafa and SLAM route

Fan Mountains, Tajikistan

Musafa route : VII+/V-VI, 250m, Andrej, Jasna Pečjak and Erol Altay 15.6.2005. 

Access: is from the International base camp some 15 min below the Alaudin lakes (from the Tajik village). Go straight up the paths till you reach the wall (1h) that is actually a ridge that connects to the main ridge of Candara. From the camp it is very obvious and very close.

Description: the route starts at the end of the lowest snowfield (or stone and sandfield) under the first peak in the ridge. Climb up following logical way (III-IV) 50m till you reach the sandshelf that can easily be reached from the left as well. Here you make a belay and head up the crack/ dihedral that starts quite easy and ends difficult (VII+). You can use friends to belay or do it technically, but they must be of the same size (1 camelot). Climb a small chimney and some plates (III) and head up under the left big dihedral. Climb up the plates (IV-V) and when it becomes too difficult head left to the overhang. Climb it (VI) and head up rotten rock till you reach a nice sand plateau. Use the pitons there for belay and head up another small overhang and then hit the big left dihedral. Climb it (50m, beautiful), use the belay we left and climb further on the butress. Starting easy it ends with a little roof (V+) with excellent holds that ends on the summit. To descent use rapells we left there (two 60 m ropes required, otherwise use some pitons to make extra rapells).

The only pitons we left are the belay ones and one in the route.

Musafa route:

SLAM route

Another route we climbed to a higher peak in the same ridge. It is shorter and easier (IV+/IV 200m) and very nice to spend a lonely afternoon after a party or a difficult climb a day before...

Pictures and description will follow ASAP