Via della famiglia - west face of Sass de Stria (Hexenstein)

Grade: UIAA V/IV 120m, west face. First climbed by A&J Pečjak and Nejc Šter 21.7.2006, 1st repeat A.Janžekovič and U.Pavlič 22.7. The route has been re-equipped by bolts on 14th of July 2022

Approach: Starting point is the parking place at the WWI fortress where the trail 31 leading to the Via Ferrata to Sass de Stria (Hexenstein) starts (passo Valparola). From there descent 66 meters following trail 31 and passing by the old military buildings. The trail turns left and leads us beneath the West face of Sass de Stria. When we pass the first gravel we turn left and reach the wall in 50m of ascent. There is a metal plate with the name and date where the route starts. The route is perfect for crowdy periods when climbers at more popular routes wait in line to start climbing. The route has been bolted and re-equipped on 14th of july 2022

Route Via della famiglia from the gravel

Metal plate at the start of the route

Description: The route is bolted, but like an alpine and not sport climbing route. It is recommended to take some friends for better protection. All belays are bolted. From the plate with route name that marks the beginning of the route we climb up and towards the left in the direction of the only tree (III, x). Some meters behind the tree is a belay point on a ledge. From there we climb to the right and up following a 50 m black dihedral that starts with a crack (IV, x,x,x,). Next belay point is on the ledge and from there the route turns 5m to the right and up over a 5 m crack (V, x). Traverse under the overhang to the right 5m and enter a second dihedral with perfect rock (IV-IV+, x, p, p) . Next belay point is on a ledge (x,p,p). From there towards left 5 meters and up 35m (III, II, I) to the last belay point. We are now on the plateau of Sass de Stria and from there one can find a trail leading to the parking place (10 minutes) .

Following trail 31 and bypassing old WWI buildings

Starting point of the route and the large gravel

Crack that enters the first dihedral (2nd pitch)

Crack in 3rd pitch (UIAA V)

Second belay point on a ledge

Last pitch



A&J climbing guide