Leave the base camp early in the morning and follow the path to Pequenio Alpamayo. When you reach the glacier go right and up to reach the glacier coming from Ilusioncita. Climb easily up (III) about 60m to reach the base of the icefall. take a breath and then climb it before the sun starts shining in it! The lower part is more then 100° mushroom, while the middle and upper part are extremly loose! After you climb it take a rest and then go straight up the snow (30°-60° snow), cross the short rock bareer (II-III) and follow a wide shelf leading you to the right. Go straight up and climb the snow between the rocks (50-70°)till you reach the summit (all together 400m). Descend the normal route !
Our Bolivia trip on Youtube
Andrej Pecjak & Branko Ivanek