Slovene icefalls

Icefalls in Tamar valley

Tamar is one of the most known Slovene ice climbing sites. The reasons are easy acess, lots of icefalls of different difficulty levels and good ice conditions the whole winter up to march. Besides the icefalls mentioned below, it is possible to find some mixed rock - ice sculptures at the right side of the falls and some nice M6-M8 routes above "Zadnji slap". The one entering Tamar will have to park the car at Planica ski jump slopes (sometimes you have to pay 3 Euros for parking) and then walk 6 km to the hut (phone +386 4 876055 or e mail miketic@s5.net ) where it is possible to get warm drink, a meal and a room to overnight). From the hut you have to follow the path to Vršič and in 15 minutes you see the view on a picture below. The valley is surrounded by mountains so it is also possible to make some ascents and in good conditions some winter climbing.

There you can see the following icefalls:

Descent:

Descent is easy, sometimes even luxury. From Candle, Plant Hidden, Central and middle fall you have to ascent 100-200 m till we reach the path for Vršič. We follow the path towards right and descent below the Last meal of Jesus. It is also possible to rappel the Hidden fall by the double rope (first around a tree on the top, then fixed pitons in a rock in the middle). From the Right fall we follow a shelf towards right. Also the Last meal ends on a shelf that follows you towards right and then descend the snow. Only the last fall has an unconfortable descent - the best way is to climb it downwards

 Last meal of Jesus (6+)

This is an icefall that used to be the most difficult  in Tamar, while later some mixed climbs were climbed there and nowdays it is no more the most difficult. Unfortunatelly it is not made very often and even when it is, there is a difficult point where you have to climb from the inner candle to the outer stalactite whitout a good possibility to secure.The whole fall's length is about 100m while the difficult part is about 20m

Right fall (4+)

First 20 m are vertical while the next pitch is about 60-70 degrees, but often of very low quality ice. It is possible to make first bellay after 25 m on an ice shelf while the next one is 40 m higher around one of the trees. Descent is quick and easy -  towards the right on a shelf with trees till you reach the path

At the entrance to Tamar valley where you park the car one can find a nice not too difficult M5/Wi5- route TR-DO .

Hidden fall (4-)

One of the easiest icefalls in Tamar. Climbers climb it quite often as it is almost always done and the ice is of good quality as the sun never shines there.First 20 m are steep (80-85 deg), the upper part is easier but the last 5 m that can also be up to 85 deg. The first bellay is about 30 m high with two rock pitons that are already there while the second is done 50 m higher around a tree on the top. After we finish we have to ascent about 100 m that can sometimes be quite nasty because of non adequate quantity of ice and snow over the rocks. Through the forest we reach the path and follow it towards the right.

Central fall (4-5)

The difficulty of this icefall varies very much upon the conditions of the ice curtain in the middle. There is one more steep part after the curtain, the whole length is about 120m. Descent is the same as from the Hidden fall - we continue upwards for about 100 m and then follow the path towards the right.

Candle (5)

Candle has got its name because of the beautiful 10m ice candle on the top that could sometimes be very hollow and wet! If the circumstances are good (not very often) it is one of the nicest falls in the valley. There is a bellay made in the rock just below the candle, about 60 m from the beginning. Also the middle part can sometimes be made of mushroom like ice that is not very pleasant (and safe) to climb. After we climb it we continue some 50m upwards and to the right behind some rocks and we come to the exit of the Hidden fall.There we continue as from the Hidden fall.