|Poslano - 15/05/2023 : 07:32:54
It could be argued that the somewhat skewed proportions of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris collection could respond well to some additional visual complexity. Introduced in 2018 with just three narrow hands, a slim bezel, and robust lugs, the resulting wide dial left plenty of room and desire for something more. Enter the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar as well as, with it, one of the better ways to spice up a three-hander: a full calendar along with four subdials.
There is something to JLC’s perpetual calendar layout that makes it look so right. It manages to strike a tasteful balance between text and texture, functionality and also excess. Optometrists will give you a much more exact figure, but we’ll hazard the guess along with say the majority of folks queueing up to buy one of these 30-grand luxury timepieces won’t be able to easily read some or most of the everlasting calendar’s tiny indications, not under any circumstance - and yet this hindrance won’t suffice in order to deter any of them.
Some watches absolutely nail proportions, more specifically the balance between case diameter, thickness from the bezel, in addition to width in the dial, and also the volume plus quantity of dial elements and the amount of free space between them. And while beauty certainly is in the eye on the beholder, the Polaris Automatic is rarely mentioned among those luxury timepieces that got proportions correct.
Presented under a boxed sapphire crystal that readily produces its own glorious halo under almost any light, four not-so-small subdials and a broad vignette -- a dark graduation around the periphery with the dial : restore visual balance in the Polaris. The dark blue, almost black, flange ring and the vignette effect round the minute track create the actual impression of a narrower, positively more compact switch, while the 4 subdials carving into all but the 12 o’clock hour marker create an opposing effect, that of an expanding dial.
It’s long before the brain could compute all these opposition forces, but the eye will likely appreciate their cumulative effect in a watch that simply looks proper. One’s brain has enough to think about, anyway, with a so-called full or even complete calendar display together with every indication on the call and none on the caseback side: Beyond three center-mounted hands for the time, there is the date, day of the week, month, four-digit year, phase of the moon traditionally displayed for your Northern Hemisphere and indicated with a retrograde hand for its Southern counterpart, and a “security zone indicator” just above the center that turns red between 8pm and 4am. That is the time of day when the never ending calendar can only be adjusted at the severe risk of turning the 868AA caliber into a snowglobe of 351 view components. Oh, and as a true Polaris trait, there is a rotating inner flange ring using 60 graduations for additional timing purposes.
All calendar functions are modified via a single pusher that is set flush with the left side of the case. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s sister brand within luxury group Richemont is IWC, which famously offers wrist watches with a continuous calendar that can be fully altered via the particular crown, without any additional pushers. While which privilege is yet to be able to transfer from IWC to the Polaris, typically the latter still manages to offer an impressive 100m water resistance rating, a rare feat among perpetual calendars and even watches equipped with these small adjustment drivers in general.
The actual Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 868AA caliber is a self-winding mechanical movement with modern specs: It operates at 4Hz frequency and combines that with an extended power reserve of 70 hours. This wasn’t that long ago that the brand’s watches offered an autonomy of just 40 hours, including this particular frankly awesome Navy SEALs collaboration piece that I used to own and reviewed here. What probably isn’t so great from an eager enjoy enthusiast’s point of view is the modular construction of your 868AA motion. Flip the new Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Calendar watch around and, although you’ll be greeted by a sapphire amazingly caseback, it will reveal any movement no more interesting or perhaps complex than that within the three-hand base model. That is because all the mechanical wizardry that makes the everlasting calendar work is comprised of a alleged module which is installed on often the dial side of the foundation caliber. Without any cutouts inside the dial, non-e of its components can be seen and appreciated - you’ll have to gaze at the correct readings belonging to the calendar for that.
On the wrist, the Polaris Perpetual Work schedule looks fantastic, measuring 42mm-wide and just 11. 97mm-thick rapid not bad, considering the boxed ravenscroft, the revolving flange engagement ring assembly, 100m water resistance ranking, extended reserve of power, self-winding together with modular construction. Both the stainless steel and the pink gold pieces can have their own straps or maybe bracelet swapped with ease: The former comes on some sort of three-link bracelet and a textured rubber strap in the box, while the latter is equipped with a new blue rubber strap and an alligator strap with a folding buckle.
Lift the exact Polaris up for a closer appear and a weakness of this luxurious piece instructions or at least the very prototype we saw in Watches & Wonders Geneva 2022 aid will soon reveal itself. Again, it’s worth emphasizing the fact that the items we saw might have been prototypes, but below closer scrutiny, the face quality just wasn’t on par having most other designer watches in this elevated price segment. For a lot less than $30, 000, we are used to seeing better-defined textures and considerably nicer as well as sharper pad printing associated with texts. The particular consistent reflectivity of the accurately applied hours markers and also faceted fingers bring a lot of that high-class feel back to the front of the Polaris Perpetual Appointments - but again, the grainy texture within the main watch dial, the muddy, poorly defined circular pattern on the subdials and the rough edges across the moonphase aperture hardly add up to an amazing macro experience. Dials by Grand Seiko, the two big German brands, and a variety of Swiss competitors often offer a lot more eye candy, and sometimes for considerably less.
In summary, the main Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Perpetual Date has stepped up the game by offering great daily wearability, thanks to its easy-to-change bracelet, good water resistance, extended power reserve, along with a vast range regarding features along with functions, all presented in a neat-looking in addition to comfy-wearing package. While its basic caseback view is arguably understandable, the quality of the dial and especially its finer details will, however , need some function before it can measure up against the competition. https://www.perfectchrono.ru